If you have a Pinterest account, you've no doubt come across those adorable pins for retro bikinis. I know I have. I always click on them with the desire to purchase the most adorable retro bathing suit, to find out that they seem to ALWAYS come with a $200 price tag. I've had an idea to make my own bathing suit in my head for some time. I didn't have a pattern, I hate patterns. My ass and hips aren't anywhere NEAR the same measurement. I am a petite person, but I can guarantee you that my ass is not, so patterns are so frustrating for me to work with.
I took a sewing class last year in Oceanside and the teacher encouraged us to go home, rip up our favorite outfits, and make a pattern out of them and recreate these garments. While I'm not down with ripping my favorite Bettie Page dresses apart, I was intrigued by the idea.
So, I decided to drive over a hour to the nearest legit fabric store, and dive into my project...
Here is everything that I did, with explanations which I hope encourage you to make your own!
Supplies Needed:
-1 full yard of bathing suit material (just to be safe! I did 1/2 a yard of two colors)
-1 full yard of bathing suit lining (it's usually in the same section, it's not pictured, but it's beige)
-4 buttons
-Large graph print paper from a fabric store (to make your pattern)
Step 1: Find your suit!
-So, this isn't my favorite bathing suit, it was one of the ones I own with the most coverage, and could untie. I did cut up another bathing suit, but this one had a nicer shape, so I went with this one.
-As you can see near the crotch area (hehe) there is an "+" this is where my crotch seam met the butt seam, it's also where it fits me directly in the middle of my nether regions, so I made that the "middle" of my bathing suit. This bathing suit is made up out of one piece, and I sewed it together at the sides. It's literally based on the idea of a diaper, doesn't that sound SO attractive!
-I measured myself from my nether regions up and decided that 12 inches was enough room for me to get a high waisted look. I wanted the bathing suit to hit me right below my belly button, but you can make it higher, it's just really up to you on what you'd like. So that's what the _ line at the top and bottom are, that is 12 inches from my middle area, to my stomach, and my back. (I'm about 5'3)
-I traced the bathing suit exactly, so I could see the shape of the bottoms. It looks like a giant diaper doesn't it?
Step 3: Measure your waist
-My waist is 26" so I made two 13 inch lines, one for the top, one for the bottom, this will be my waistband.
Step Four: Create YOUR bikini!
I just went with this and did what I thought was good. You'll notice, it's a little lopsided on the right, that's okay, with sewing, you can ALWAYS take things in. I made this a little larger than I thought I would wear because I'd rather have to make it smaller, than need it bigger.
Step Five: Cut your pattern out WITH SEAM ALLOWANCE
-I've gotten pretty good at eying what an inch is, so please allow yourself an inch, and measure if you have to! You do not want to sew close to the edges of a bathing suit, I'll explain why, but give yourself an inch, you can always trim the edges later!
Step Six: Cut out your bikini bottom fabric
-I'm always worried about making things too small because I did that once with a custom skirt, so I'm forever haunted. You'll notice, I cut the bikini material from the pattern, then the lining is from the bikini material...
Step 7: Cut out your lining
-Unless you want to be rockin' a MEAN OLD camel toe at the beach, you NEED lining. Use your bikini material as the pattern for this one so it comes out evenly.
Step 8: Pin lining and Bikini Bottom together
-So, with the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew along all four sides of the material, stopping close to any end so that you can turn it right side out.
-It's not pictured, but after I sewed around all sides, flipped it inside out, I stitched it closed, and then went around all the seams with a straight stitch, that's optional, I really don't think it did anything for my suit...I just wanted a more fancy trim.
-ZIG ZAG, I'm pretty sure every basic machine comes with a zig zag stitch nowadays, I also used a special needle for sewing knits and stretches, you can find those in the needle section, but honestly, I think these are a gimmick!
Step 10 (Not Pictured) - Sew the sides together
-I sewed and re sewed these bottoms about 5 times to get them to where I wanted. Keep trying them on and pinning them to adjust the sizing, that's what makes them custom! Just sew the sides together (where your hips are) with the right side of fabric together to attach them together.
- I also sewed on the buttons, my pretty anchor ones were too small, but I'm happy that I had these other retro ones lying around to use.
-I wanted a bandeau style, so I pulled out one that fit well. Trace it out just like the bikini bottoms, don't forget your seam allowance!
Step 12: Cut out Bikini Top Fabric
-As you can see, I made mine into a sweetheart shape, I just wanted it to be a little more fitted than the one I had.
Step 13: Pin right side of bikini top and lining together
-Sew around the top and bottom (NOT THE SIDES)
-Optional - I bought bra cups, and put them in here to give my boobies some shape, I tried the top on without them, and it looked just fine, but I think the bra cups help keep it up.
Step 14: Creating Sides
-I didn't copy a pattern on this one. I just made it based on what I thought would look good. On the edges, this is the same width as the top, and the bottom is skinnier because I don't have a clasp, so I am going to tie it together.
- I sewed around three sides, turned it inside out, and sewed the end bit closed.
-Then I just attached it to the bra piece with the right sides facing together. (Like the bottoms)
annnddddd you're done! I didn't include directions on how to do the bow, because it's extremely easy, and if you have sewn anything, you've sewn a bow before, I'm sure! :)
My husband is in Florida for 3 weeks of training, so this is the best picture I could get by myself! : )
BAM!
And now I am sunbathing on our porch, refusing to take it off.
What I learned from making my own bikini.
1. Patience is a virtue. I wasn't kidding when I said I sewed these bottoms probably 5 times. What I mean is, that I kept making the crotch area smaller so that it didn't bunch up. I would go in about 1/4" every time, because I didn't want to make it too small. This was a great idea, because the final time I sewed it, if I would have done more than 1/4" it would have been too small in that area!
2. A one inch seam allowance is perfect! If you sew too close to the edges, with a zig zag stich on bathing suit material, it bunches. It's really hard to explain, but I played with the fabric before I sewed with it. If you've seen those scrunch bottom bikinis, that are sort of curly and wavey at the ends, that's what it does to the fabric when you sew close to the edges. By sewing close to the end of the seam, it won't lay flat, it will curl up at the ends.
3. Stretch the Fabric! I know that is going against every knit cardinal rule you've ever heard of, but it's true. This is NOT a knit material, if anything, this material is your ENEMY. If I didn't stretch the material when I was sewing, it would have taken over my sewing machine, and conquered my life!
4. Don't give up! It was hard, but I stuck with it, and I am so happy with the results!
This might seem like a weird question, but did you use elastic? I didn't see it in your supply list or throughout your instructions.
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